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Friday, August 21, 2009

On to Groblersdal....small town, Africa!

Leaving gorgeous, oceanic Cape Town, I returned to sunny but chilly Jo’burg for one day before heading off to the middle of the African bush. I was picked up by Fleur and we headed to a picnic with her friends near the botanical gardens. It’s quite a nice large park area actually, except for the fact that everything is super dry and the grass is yellow because it’s winter. Of course after a few glasses of wine I was a little too fascinated by the “African savannah” feel and I’m sure that most of Fleur’s friends think I’m a little bit retarded. Whatever. I taught a few of them how to pee in the bushes Canadian style so it’s all good. I knew it was going to be my last party day for a while so I made the most of it. I love the people in Jo’burg I have to say and Fleur is a doll for putting me up so many times.

In any case, Monday meant the journey off to the middle of nowhere. I had by now had a variety of reactions from the locals when I said I was going to Groblersdal – from “oh, that’s a nice little town...” to flat out laughter and outbursts of “you’re going WHERE??”, which I have to admit did not inspire much confidence. I was mostly told to expect a very small town feel and prepare to get in touch with Jesus as the little towns are quite into religion. I was also told I was going to pick up some Afrikaans and either Setswana or Sesotho up there, as English was likely to be a little less common. Since it’s only two and a half months however, I figured how bad could it be really? It’s all part of the adventure.

As Monday morning came I was picked up by Ruth, a rather nice and funny girl about my age with whom I will be working and living with for the next little while. She is the main administrator at the MFI where I will be interning.

As there is no major transport route to Groblersdal except car (already a good sign) we had to take a minibus taxi. So once again I found myself packed tightly into a minivan rolling through increasingly archetypal African landscapes, while having gospel music blasted in my ear. It was a three hour journey, the last hour of which was punctuated by my head hitting the “emergency exit” sign, painted rather ironically on a small glass window with no discernible emergency handle of any sort, as we hit pothole after pothole in the road.

Finally arriving in Groblersdal I felt a lot more like I was in the real Africa. It is definitely a small town, but situated in a pretty valley surrounded by farmland and mountains. There are oranges, avocados and other fresh produce everywhere. There are also tonnes, and tonnes of red dust.

Ruth had rather kindly arranged for me to stay with her family. I have to admit I had no idea what to expect, but since I am on a budget I was willing to pretty much take anything. I have to say I was more than pleasantly surprised. They have a one floor bungalow type house on a small dirt road settlement. The landmark of their house is the greenest lawn on the street since the father is retired and seems to have fully invested himself in the yard work. Everything is incredibly clean and meticulously cared for, and they have a dog which is always a bonus for me. Ruth’s parents are also just incredibly wonderful people. I was given my own room and told to help myself to whatever. So far their hospitality and generosity has overwhelmed me. I am trying to do my part by offering to cook and clean whenever I can but mostly they won’t let me. Today however I did manage to sneak my way into the kitchen in order to learn how to make a proper African meal. I think I could actually make a decent pap now! Two degrees later and I now well on my way to becoming a proper housewife. Mom and Dad will be proud.

Everyone in the neighbourhood seems fascinated by me and likely wonders what I am doing here, since I seem to be the only white person anywhere nearby. I’ve met a few of the neighbours and again, as I’ve noticed all over South Africa, everyone is just so friendly! People are curious and open and love to laugh and joke. They also all want to know what I think of South Africa. In some weird way it reminds me a little bit of Japan in fact.

I went in to work at the MFI today for the first time as well, and realized how much work there is to do! I am excited for it though. I have learned so much already. Finally all those MBA accounting courses are reluctantly coming to my aid. It is really nice to apply concepts to the real world and realize just how far you were from actually getting the concept until you have to use it. It is going to be a great experience.

It is definitely rural Africa though. Until now I have been having an amazing time in major cities but this is certainly not much like either Jo’burg or Cape Town. With the exception of the townships I have been to in the major cities I didn’t really feel that there was much of a culture shock in coming to South Africa. Here though I can see that I will be challenged and will see a whole other side to things.

For one, getting to work everyday is via taxi (minibus) of course so I expect I will be an expert in using them by the time I leave here – that is if I survive with the way that they drive. Today I also went for my first jog around the area where I am staying, which is just outside town, and it caused quite a stir. A lot of people here hang out on the street and there were lots of shocked faces when they saw me run by. Some of the braver young guys called out after me with suggestive smiles, while others shouted a surprised ‘hello’. A lot of the younger women giggled in surprise. Many of the kids on the other hand started running with me down the street and for a while I had a little jogging club. Everyone with whom I made eye contact smiled at me, though with a bit of shocked amusement. Again I was reminded of Japan as I felt like a celebrity for doing what to me seems like such an ordinary thing. I wonder if they will get used to me by the time that I leave.

This weekend I have been invited to a wedding negotiation which sounds exciting. And yes, it is what you are thinking! Apparently they discuss exchanging cows for the bride. Unless of course my host is pulling my leg, which she very well could be given that she seems to have a healthy sense of humour. In any case there should be lots of partying involved and I will report more on that next week.

Net access is in fact going to be difficult as there is nothing much at home nor even work but luckily there is a net café near the office so I am not totally without it. I am definitely going to get the local experience that I wanted though which is great. I might be a little stir crazy on the weekends but I’m sure I will find something to amuse myself. I always do. Fleur and co. have promised to visit one weekend though so at least I have that to look forward to! Since Ruth goes to Jo’burg and Pretoria lots as well I might join her one weekend too but I do have to watch the spending so its best that I just make the most of being in this little town surrounded by low mountains that seem to just be crying out for me to hike them. That, and there is always the possibility of suddenly being moved by the Holy Spirit and getting down with G.O.D. on the weekends….

1 comment:

  1. The wedding negotiation is not a joke. The cows are called lobola, in exchange for the bride. It's controversial with more modern folk.

    Don't know about G.O.D. but his son was quite into wine. Maybe you'll get along better with him? :)

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